Bat Modifications



There are quite a few different ways to cork a wiffle ball bat, but every league’s rules are different when it comes to whether or not corking your bat is legal. The only rule we have when it comes to bats is that the barrel can not exceed 3″ around. Here are some of the examples of our corked bats and how the process works.

Method 1 (The Twinkie Method)









This is the MLB Powerhouse bat filled with spray foam insulation. The foam we use comes in an aerosol can, called Great Stuff, and can be found at basically any hardware store. Find the foam that expands the most since you are filling a large internal area. Methods vary on how to get the foam inside but we usually drill a hole in both ends of the bat and injected the foam into each end. The foam expands about 50% more so be careful when using it and also use gloves (and eye wear if you want) because it tends to get everywhere.

Method 2 (The Dowel Method)










This method uses a 3/4″ wood dowel that is inserted down the center of the bat. Wood dowels can be found at any hardware store and the 3/4″ width will fit in almost any bat handle with a little modification. The first step is to take a drill with a 3/4″ hole bit on the end and drill a hole dead center at the top of the bat. Stand your bat up on the ground with the dowel next to it and mark how much of the dowel you’ll need to cut off at the end. The next step is to take some sandpaper (or a sander if you have one) and sand down the side of the dowel that will slip into the handle. The dowel is usually wider than the handle so you sand it down little by little until it fits snug inside the handle. You can also use glue on the dowel to keep it secure when you finally slide it in. Make sure that when the dowel is slid into the bat that the mark you made earlier is right at the top of the bat so you know it’s all the way in. Take a saw and cut off the top of the dowel leaving a little sticking out of the top in order to make the bat more solid throughout. Finally, you can use a little glue at the top to make sure your dowel doesn’t come sliding out and maim anybody.

Method 3 (The Next Level)










This, my friends, is my (Casey’s) bat. It’s called The Next Level for a reason. I combined the previous two modifications into a super bat. To achieve this next level of wiffle, you need to first do the dowel method to your bat. After that, find a drill bit that is the same diameter as the Great Stuff nozzle and drill two holes on opposite sides of the dowel. You will not drill any holes in the bottom since the dowel fills the entire handle. Take your can of foam and spray down inside the bat through each hole until you reach your desired amount. I personally don’t like the bat completely filled with foam because you lose a lot of the pop in the bat by doing so. Finally go out and beat everyone in a home run derby.


User Methods

The Ryan Method









One of our readers, Ryan, swears by the Easton Pro Stix 1000.  So much so, that he’s taken it to another level.  His method of corking?  Well, simple…it’s packing peanuts.  His steps are:

  • Cut approximately 1/2 inch off the top of the bat.  Leave about a 1/2 inch segment attached and bend the top away from the bat.  Take care not to break it.
  • Stuff as many packing peanuts as you desire down the barrel using another bat’s knob as a ramrod.
  • Fold the top back into place and use tape to seal it up.  Color is your choice, he prefers to keep black on black.
  • Refill if needed, the peanuts usually need a refresher after 1-2 years according to Ryan.
I like this method for several reasons without ever trying it.  First, you have options.  Packing peanuts come in a wide variety, different types may yield different results.  Second, it’s simple.  Third, cutting the top off of the bat is a widely used method of modifying your bat.  If you don’t like the peanuts, you could use newspaper, or spray foam, or whatever.  It gives you options.
Ryan, thanks for submitting this, we appreciate your drive to be the best.  Happy wiffling.

The Jim Method








Jim has laid the plans out for a seriously solid method of modifying a short bat for an increase in length.  Don’t take it from me, here it is from the horse’s mouth.

 Here’s my first try at modding the Quickbat. As you can see from the pix it’s now slightly longer than my Louisville Slugger. I cut the knob off, inserted about 12″ of 3/4″ dowel and used a 4″ piece of 3/4″ abs to cover the dowel and fill in the gap in the handle. I secured it all together with glue and wood screws and then coated it all with aerosol Plastidip. I imagine the standard Plastidip would have worked better but I wanted to cover more of the handle. Cosmetically I may end up replacing the Plastidip with bat tape.

I’m serious when I say that this method appears to have a lot of promise.  Jim has said that if there’s enough interest, he’d make an actual “how-to” for us.  Let him know what you think and whether or not you’d like to see a little more info.

Thanks again, Jim.  We always appreciate new ideas.




Like we said earlier, there are many different ways to cork your bat ranging from wet newspapers stuffed inside, bouncy balls, tennis balls, etc. Let us know in the comments what your best bat modifications are and we’ll try them out on our next bat.

73 Replies to “Bat Modifications”

  1. So when using method #3, you aren’t filling the bat completely with foam? Just was curious. I’m going to modify my bats this week (nerf, 2 easton power stix, and an original wiffle bat).


    1. Hey Jon! You could fill the whole bat with foam, but it takes away the natural flexibility of the plastic bat which almost acts as a springboard for the ball. The Twinkie Method bat for example, which is hard as a rock and completely filled with foam, doesn’t hit it near as far as our doweled bat’s do. I would recommend only filling it 25-50% with foam just to give it a little more weight. In order to make the modification testing equal, I have used all of these methods on the grey Powerhouse bats. The 3rd method seems to work the best with method 2 being not far behind. With your bats, I would definitely use method 2 or 3 for one of the Easton’s, but leave one original since they are a good bat to begin with. I’ve never modified a Nerf one so I’ll leave that to you!

    2. To piggy back, also be sure to leave space for the foam to expand and go slowly. Little bits of foam grow a lot and take time to fully expand. I’d do it in phases for the best results. Good luck. Send us pictures at and let us know how it goes.

  2. I use packing peanuts to cork my bats (Easton Pro Stix). They’ve worked great…Maintains the bat barrel and balance and gives extra pop. Let me know if you want a pic. Please note that we use the hard Jugs all holes balls and not the traditional wiffle balls. Also, we use the small all hole golf wiffle balls. Check out this site to see my pitching machine. It’s a great buy.

    1. Great idea Ryan. I never thought of packing peanuts, and I bet you can certainly solidify your bat while maintaining a light weight. We’d love to see pictures, and possibly post them if you’re alright with that!

      Look forward to having a look! Thanks.

  3. try using 2 drilled in screws to secure a wood dowel that stopps before the barrell. i usualy just go to this huge thrift store that has a bunch of different plastic bats for about 75 cents and just mod them
    (fisher price works really well-do you want a pic?)

      1. also, try silly string in a skinny bat
        (just an idea, but it would probably work, no dryin or anything, and you could use the hole at the bottom of the bat
        a whole can of that stuff would definitely fill the barrell)

  4. I have a couple of the Easton bats and I’m going to try method #2 and #3 do you guys tape the barrel of the bats when your done or you do you leave them the way they are?

    1. Casey modded both #2 and #3, he’s the big bat modder of the crew, but here’s the general idea. Get a dowel that fits inside the handle, drill a hole in the barrel end and slide it into the handle from the top. It should fit very snugly to avoid a wobbly handle. Because it fits into the handle, it will be pretty stable by itself, but to add security, two smaller holes (big enough for the “Great Stuff” straw to fit) should be drilled on opposite sides of the dowel. SLOWLY add great stuff a little at a time to fill the gaps and you’ll have a seriously solid bat after that. There’s no taping needed, you’ll just have a dowel cut at the same spot as the plastic would normally be, it’ll be flush. All in all it’s a pretty clean method when you’re finished. Don’t forget gloves and eye protection as great stuff isn’t very kind to work with. Go slow, slow, slow. Happy wiffling.

  5. Ok. Thanks. I was asking about the tape cause I know some people use it to help make the ball go farther. Didn’t know if Casey did too or if he just keep the bat normal. I might try both with tape on the barrel and without, to see if it gives it any extra pop. Thanks and love the site.

    1. I like the feeling that tape on the barrel provides. It’s kind of a bit of traction for the ball to grab onto. I find better contact with tape. The distance effect for me is negligible. All of our skinny bats have taped barrels, aside from that Junk Ball Revolution garbage. I like your idea of trying one versus the other. Let us know what you think.

      1. I’ve also sandpapered one of the barrels on my Easton’s for extra traction/grip. I think it helps, but only have hit with that particular version a few times this spring. Just my 2

          1. I don’t think it affected the integrity of the barrel since the plastic is pretty think (I know since I cut most of the tops off for the packing peanuts). I was just trying to mimick the Easton C-Core and Reflex bats of the late 90’s when they had a rough surface on the barrels. Baseballs seemed to really jump off those bats back then. Let me know if you guys end up trying this…

  6. Have you guys or anyone else tried using the Dap brand spray foam? It stays somewhat pliable when it’s dry and it cleans up with soap and water. Love the site!

    1. That’s a negative, Jim. We’ve haven’t ever seen it. Suppose it’s time for a trip to some different hardware stores. Thanks for the tip!

      1. Took out the powerhouse bat with the DAP foam filling tonight, couldn’t be happier! Hard to tell any difference when you’re holding it but when you hit one on the screws it really jumps off the bat. I also put two small wood screws in the bottom part of the handle so I am hoping it doesn’t break at the joint. I’m probably gonna try foaming up one of my Louisville Sluggers next. Love the site!

  7. I put a piece of electrical or duct tape on the injection mold hole on a bat to give it a bit of a prssurized feel like the big jack bat. I know it doesnt help too much, but it gives the bat a little extra pop.

    1. I just modified a MLB Powerhouse bat this weekend…I hit the first 12 for 14 pitches out. I used my method with packing peanuts, but want to do more testing. Since I can’t get an Louisville now (Amazon is out), the Powerhouse was a nice alternative. So far, pretty impressed though. A little worried about the knob but was very pleased at the first round of hitting.

      1. Glad to hear it went well. We loved the distance of the MLB Powerhouse, but you’re right to be wary of the knob. Here’s to hoping that it holds up for you! As for the Griffey bats, I contacted Louisville, they have a representative looking into where we might be able to get them. As soon as I know, you’ll know.

  8. Wish I could buy all 8 but will have to go with 1 for now. Will look nice with all the Eastons though…

    Chad, quick question. Have you tested your Marucci yet?

    1. I’ll let you in on a little secret, we’ve tested the Marucci, a new bat called the Spectrum, and a Moonshot KSCX, can’t let out too much info before we post vids, though. The plan is to get it all filmed tomorrow, then I’ll cut and post when it’s ready. Anything in particular you wanted to know?

      1. Just interested in the Marucci…looks like a sweet bat. Can’t afford a Moonshot. Did they send you a free one for testing or did drop the $$$?

        1. The Marucci is sweet indeed. The build quality is obviously insane, they’re a great company, and it’s a fun bat. Do I use it in a competitive game? No. It’s heavy, and the pop off of most plastic bats is way better. Is it really cool? Absolutely.

          As far as Moonshot goes, they shot us a demo bat. We’ll see how it plays out, we’re excited.

          1. Sweet, I’ll wait to see the vids. Thanks for the quick replies…just sitting here watching the CWS and hoping the wind dies down here soon so we can got hit again soon.

  9. I’m currently ordering the quickbat and I’m thinking of using the Ryan method I just have one question. Is there a certain type of packing peanut needed to give the bat more pop. I know there’s 2 types of them big, and small is there a better type??

    1. I’d hold that thought, I’m going to post the “Jim” method of modifying the Quickbat. It looks really promising, and if he’s kind enough, he may even do a video tutorial for us. Give me the day to get the post up and then decide what you’d like to do. As far as the Ryan method, we’ve never used it, so you’ll have to speak with him directly. Reply to any of his posts here and he should see it and get back to you. He visits the site quite often.

    2. Mike,

      I started off using the big kind of packing peanut. I liked that for the best way to pack them in the bat. Recently, I’ve used a mix of big and small, primarly due to where I was getting the packing peanuts from. I’ve been using this process for years with my Easton’s and it works great.

      It really a simple process and should take you about 10 minutes start to finish. Please let me know if you have any questions and how it goes with the Ripken Quickbat. I’m not sure if I’ll do it with my Louisville, still dreaming of a Moonshot.


  10. I sent you a picture of the screws, did it come through? If not I can resend it. Let me know. Keep up the good work!

    1. Don’t forget eye protection, gloves, chain mail, and all other means of protection. If you are under 18, get an adult to do it for you. 🙂

  11. Mike,

    Glad to hear you are going with the packing peanuts! The easiest way to cut off the top of the bat for me is to use a hack saw.

    It goes pretty smoothly…

    Good luck!


  12. I just finished and it went pretty smoothly. I followed your directions and now I’ll be hitting even more homers than b4.

  13. I just tried Ryan’s methods with a bat that I had. However, the bats pop or distance has not increased since adding the peanuts. Any thoughts on how to get this to work?

    1. No idea. We’ve never actually used the Ryan method. You may want to experiment with different types of peanuts. Or…better yet, comment on a response from Ryan so he gets an email notification and he can answer your question.

      1. Matt,
        I use the actual hard styrofoam packing peanuts…the ones that break apart into a million pieces…not the newer ones that compress into tiny pieces, if that makes sense. I wonder why you haven’t seen any results? What type of wiffle balls do you use? We use the all holes balls or swiss cheese balls…


        PS, sorry I haven’t been able to comment on the site, not sure if the format has changed or what….

  14. Hey guys, I find that other than wind direction, that batspeed, launch angle+spin are pretty much the main determinants (as long as you do not swing fast enough to implode the ball)in wiffleball distance hitting, and believe it or not, I prefer the yellow bats during home run derby type games, as I can get it around a little faster, and will not tire you out by the time you get to the last round. If you can train yourself to hit with the last 2 inches of a yellow bat, you will get great distance and have the ability to wait on pitches until the last possible moment.

    The longer bats, for the same rotational speed, will meet the ball at greater bat speeds, and will tend to implode the ball less with the bigger barrel, getting you even more distance.

    Getting your pitcher to throw you fastball type pitches will get you a little more distance as well if you are doing a derby, to get the nice backspin that will get you a few extra feet with the rising action. Some home runs are taken away by the ball curving back toward the ground when a pitcher throws other stuff. You want the pitches to just hang….and then bang off they go.

    Most of the mods above increase weight, and I find that to be counterproductive, unless you can get the bat around at the same speed as unmodified (if so, forget all of my argument), and make solid contact and send the ball at that perfect ~30 degree angle with a touch of backspin (you know what I am talking about, the ball just ‘leaves town’), then you may get even more distance.

    One more note: the polyurethane expanding foam used above is a closed cell foam which has some spring to it, but it will disintegrate over time, literally wearing out its ‘pop’ over time with use.

    Great site, by the way. I have and use the yellow bats, LS C271, and JunkBall bats for home run derbies, and wood bats for games. If you can train yourself to hit the harder plastic sweet spot on the JunkBallers with just the right amount of speed (don’t implode the ball), you can start to get close to the 130 to 140 foot mark with a perfect hit on a new ball. Wind, unfortunately, changes everything (for better or worse). If you want to make yourself feel real good, hit the Wiffle practice balls (solid on both sides). Like hitting a Blitzball, they carry very far.


  15. Using a louisville griffey bat I cut the top off, filled it with tightly packed newspaper to about half way up the bat, and then filled it the rest of the way up with corks from wine bottles. After I taped it up, it had extremely good pop that was better than the original one.

  16. My dad and I are modifying a SkyBall Bat right now. Yesterday we used a hacksaw to cut the handle. We then took 3/4” (in diameter) PVC pipe to extend the handle. The PVC pipe was just slightly too wide to fit inside the bat so we used an electric sander to file it down a little. It worked well and fit in the bat snug. We only are using the pipe to extend the handle since we do not want to cork the bat. The bat originally was about 29” but now it’s around 36” long. It’s already a powerful bat that has tick plastic walls all around and can send the ball a mile. We’re drilling a couple of holes this evening and inserting a few nuts and bolts followed by a healthy application of batting tape. I’ll give it a test run after that. I’ll let you know how it goes. Great bat modification tips on here, by the way.

  17. No you guys don’t have a review of that bat on the site. That’s a shame, it packs a real punch. Anyway, my dad and I finished the bat tonight and I went ahead and details the step-by-step process before I could forget it. I put it on my league’s website if you want to see it:

    My league is unsure of what bat to use in regulation play this summer and I think this one may be the favorite if it does as well as I think it will with the extra reach. The bat ended up being 36” long and I cannot wait to hit some balls with it.

  18. I used method 3 to cork my orange mlb powerhouse bat. It worked well. You were right when you said that the spray went everywhere. I left the bat out to dry and when I got back, there was a 6x3x3 inch growth on the side of the bat. thanks for the great idea

    1. I like all my bats without modification, Casey’s a little different. We both agree that the c271 and Blitzball bat shouldn’t be touched though.

  19. I am trying method 3 tonight on an mlb powerhouse and I was wondering if I should also epoxy the bottom part of the handle or the I should leave it how it is.

    1. Probably wouldn’t hurt to epoxy the handle. Just be careful and let the epoxy set up before you go mixing foam with it. Best of luck. Let us know how it turns out.

  20. I actually cut some off the bottom of my bats, how long depends on what bat, and then I just insert a wooden handle into it. I actually used wiffleboy28’s idea but I just did a few adjustments. I’m not really sure if the pop of the bat increases or not but its a much better feel. And for original wiffleball bats I suggest sliding a bike inner tube on the barrel of the bat. The rubber of the inner tubes gives so much pop. I have pics if anyone wants to see them

        1. Austin suggested sliding a bike inner tube on the barrel of the bat. I got a tube but it’s way too tight to slide on the bat. Maybe I just need a larger sized inner tube.

          1. Gosh, you’d think I could read, huh? I’m not sure about the logistics of this setup. However, if Austin logged into our site with a legitimate email, he should have gotten an email notification about your comment. If his email address was not legitimate, there’s no way to contact him about this. I wish I could help. Instead, I’ll just let myself out of the conversation. If you do figure it out, let me know!

            Happy wiffling!

  21. Which method do you recommend for the Junk Ball Bat if any. I like the bat just not the wobble from the skinny handle.

    1. Dustin,

      I don’t know that I’d actually try modding a classic Junk Ball Bat. Seems like it would probably do more harm than good. You may be able to do a complete handle replacement (a la the GTSOH or Loco), but I’m no pro at doing that. Best of luck, happy wiffling.

    1. The thing about wet paper is that it dries. And when it dries, you’ve essentially got one big barrel-sized brick of newsprint. I think you may be better off with something that continues to give you spring. Bubble wrap comes to mind. Maybe give that a shot.

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